How To Install A Replacement Vinyl Window

When Maddy Krauss and her hubby, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-style abode, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were nevertheless intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-statuary fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House Tv's fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Telephone call in TOH full general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install free energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad forest units fitted with energy-saving, low-eastward insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was washed, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love near their old house. Here's a await at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Types of Replacement Windows

Unlike total-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as xi ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad forest, and aluminum-clad wood.

At that place are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, and then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must exist level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a gear up-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is and then fastened to the old side jambs. Considering y'all're adding new jambs and liners, the glass surface area will exist slightly smaller than it was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they take a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the just option when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening downwards to its rough framing, inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

The most important pace in the window-replacement procedure happens long before installation day. It's when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you lodge a replacement unit that's the right size. Here'due south how to do it.

Offset by measuring the within width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the meridian, heart, and bottom. Write downward the smallest of the three measurements.
Next, measure out the frame's height from the summit of the sill to the underside of the caput jamb in iii places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Over again, record the smallest measurement.
Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The 2 dimensions should be the aforementioned. If the frame is out of square by 1/4 inch or then, don't worry; the replacement can exist shimmed to fit. Annihilation more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is and so out of whack that a foursquare replacement wouldn't wait correct, you'll need a full-frame replacement.
Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to decide the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

three. Take Out the Sash

The showtime step is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In about cases, yous'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, practice this task carefully; they break easily.)
Next, take out the parting beads to free the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be any beads. But press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forrad.
Then pin one side of the sash upward to gratuitous information technology from the jamb liners.

four. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Man Prying Off Jamb Liners For Window Replacement

If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a apartment bar to pry them costless. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
Go out the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Man Using Flat Bar To Pry Off Jamb Liners

Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch whatsoever holes or cracks with an outside-course wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
Then sand the jambs smooth, and prime and pigment the surfaces.

vi. Remove the Old Sash Weights

If the original sash weights are however in place, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate behind the window frame.
Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

seven. Prep For Insulation

Man Uses Drill To Prep For Window Replacement Insulation

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it'southward more effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

Make certain to utilise simply low-force per unit area, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and keep the sash from working.
First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
Then bore 3/viii-inch-bore holes, one near each end and one in the center, downwardly through the sill and upward through the caput jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

Man Sprays Foam Into Drilled Holes For Window Replacement Preparation

Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, but y'all can do the same job with cream from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
Also spray cream into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the excess to harden for at least 6 hours, then suspension or cutting it off flush earlier replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Man Caulks Along Windowsill For Window Replacement

In preparation for installing the window, utilise an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the pinnacle and sides of the frame. Also utilise ii continuous beads of caulk forth the windowsill.

ten. Install the Window

Working from inside the room, set the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it up into the opening. Press the window tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

eleven. Fasten It Loosely

Concur the window in place with one 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Conform the unit of measurement by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
Mensurate the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is foursquare, screw information technology in place through the predrilled holes.
To avoid bowing the frame, sideslip a shim backside the jamb at each screw, then screw through the shim.
Trim the shims affluent with a utility knife.

thirteen. Caulk, Prime and Paint

Man Stands In Front Of Window Replacement To Find Gaps

From the outside, measure out the gaps betwixt the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than i/4 inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must first be stuffed with foam-safety backer rod.
On the inside, fill whatsoever gaps around the window with minimally expanding cream.
Finish upwardly by reinstalling the stops or calculation new ones.
And then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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